"An ideal meal starts with the bastilla, pulled chicken and almonds jammed into brik dough and fried until crispy, like a giant square spring roll. It’s topped with a thick layer of confectioner’s sugar, a touch that works so well you may recklessly wonder why more appetizers aren’t frosted.

For the main dishes, the bistro basics, especially the steak au poivre, are dependably good, and the couscous is filling. But the tagine (lamb, chicken, or kefta) is the showstopper. Portioned for two, it arrives in a tall clay vessel, clutched between napkins. The waiter pauses for dramatic effect before rolling off the lid, letting steam billow out. If you ordered the lamb, swollen prunes, fat apricots, and egg-shaped potatoes hug two giant shanks sunk in a still-bubbling broth; the prunes collapse into a sweet, jammy mess the second they’re touched. Shovel some of the fruit over meat pulled clean from the bone, add slivered almonds for crunch, and it’s a perfect bite.

Ending your meal with dessert is a must, and the crème brûlée is irreproachably classic. Shatter the shell of blistered sugar into pieces that look like stained glass and try not to smile."

A million thanks to Becky Cooper and to the New Yorker for this generous review.

>> Read the full article here.